Beautiful Cyangugu: Rwanda's Hidden Gem
By Claire Brosnihan and Timothy Presley
Cyangugu. It’s a name that refers to the two southwestern districts in Rwanda, Nyamasheke and Rusizi. It’s the land beyond Nyungwe Forest, and affectionately referred to as the Gug (pronounced “Goog”). Some might call it the most beautiful place in Rwanda, but few brave the 7-hour bus ride from Kigali to witness its grandeur. Others refuse to believe it actually exists. Read on, as this little guide to the sites of Cyangugu may just convince you to make the trip off the tourist map to visit the land of the Gugunauts (you know, if seeing us wasn’t a big enough draw already).
First, decide on how you’ll get to Cyangugu. You have two choices: either take a bus from Kigali to Kamembe (5,200 francs), or take the boat from Gisenyi (6,000) or Kibuye (2,500). Impala, Sotra, Kigali Coach, and Omega bus lines all offer trips to Kamembe, although you’ll need to take a bus leaving no later than 11 am if you want to make it to Kamembe before dark. As you go through Nyungwe Forest, keep your eyes open for adorable monkeys outside the bus, and for your fellow passengers barfing inside the bus. Restocking on your meclizine supply before making the trip is highly recommended.
The boat runs from Gisenyi/Kibuye to Kamembe on Sundays and Wednesdays, and returns on Tuesday and Friday. It takes about 6 hours to get to Kibuye and 9 hours to Gisenyi from Kamembe (call 0788870308 or 0722069594 to confirm its schedule). Although the boat isn’t the speediest vessel on Lake Kivu, the boat is relatively comfortable, it serves some food, and it has some amazing views.
On a geographical note, you might hear Kamembe confusingly called either Cyangugu or Rusizi. Generally the city on the hill, where the bus park is located, is called Kamembe, and the area down by Lake Kivu and the border with the DRC is called Rusizi or Cyangugu; it’s about a 10 minute, 400-500 franc moto ride from the official Kamembe town.
After arriving in Kamembe, get a budget room at Isimbi Lodge near the Mosque (safe and simple, but sometimes there’s no water or electricity; ensuite bathroom and shower; no hot water, 6,000 or 9,000), or at Home St Francois (shared bathrooms/showers, no hot water; 6,000) near the DRC/Rwanda border. If you have guests who are aren’t on a Peace Corps stipend visiting, the Hotel des Chutes (rooms from 15,000-60,000; hot water) and the just-opened Kivu Emeraude Resort both offer nice rooms and fine dining (0787010900 or [email protected]; rooms from $120-210).
On a geographical note, you might hear Kamembe confusingly called either Cyangugu or Rusizi. Generally the city on the hill, where the bus park is located, is called Kamembe, and the area down by Lake Kivu and the border with the DRC is called Rusizi or Cyangugu; it’s about a 10 minute, 400-500 franc moto ride from the official Kamembe town.
After arriving in Kamembe, get a budget room at Isimbi Lodge near the Mosque (safe and simple, but sometimes there’s no water or electricity; ensuite bathroom and shower; no hot water, 6,000 or 9,000), or at Home St Francois (shared bathrooms/showers, no hot water; 6,000) near the DRC/Rwanda border. If you have guests who are aren’t on a Peace Corps stipend visiting, the Hotel des Chutes (rooms from 15,000-60,000; hot water) and the just-opened Kivu Emeraude Resort both offer nice rooms and fine dining (0787010900 or [email protected]; rooms from $120-210).
Enjoy the amazing views of Lake Kivu and mansions on the DRC side while enjoying some brochettes, fries, and Primi at Ku Bagore, located right on the lake near the DRC border (take a moto from town), or head to Kwasa’s/La Seule Addresse near the Obama Shop on the main road in town for a great omelette especiale and soccer matches on the TVs. Motel Rubavu also offers a good Rwandan buffet.
The Hotel des Chutes near the DRC border offers a bigger variety of food, and most of it is still affordable on a Peace Corps stipend—the veggie burger and fries for 2,000 francs is delicious, and their pea curry is great for when you’ve tired of ibirayi and brochettes. A number of places also offer pork (akabenzi); check out Kwa Monica near the bus station, or Hotel Umucyo in town.
Take in the beautiful sunset over Lake Kivu while watching the fishermen head out in their boats and pull in their catches. At night, you can often catch some live music at Motel Rubavu in town, a pool table and music at Kwasa’s, or check out the nightclub and some waragi at Ku Bagore while looking out over Lake Kivu and the DRC.
As fun as it can be, there’s more to the Gug than just Kamembe. In Rusizi District take a hike to the DRC/Rwanda border from Mushaka/Gishoma (take a bus from Kamembe in the direction of Bugarama). In just two to three hours of hiking, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most gorgeous views in all of Rwanda. Dramatic cliffs plummet down to the Rusizi River, which forms the border between the two countries. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water!
Continuing your trip through Rusizi District, make sure you visit the hot springs of Cimerwa, near Bugarama. Take a Sotra bus straight from Kamembe; the trip takes about 1.5 hours. It will drop you off in Cimerwa town, and then it’s about another 20 minutes walking to arrive at the hot springs (amashyuza), with lovely views of the cement factory on the way. The water ranges from comfortably hot to scalding, and from a foot or so deep to about five feet.; unlike the Gisenyi hot springs, the Cimerwa hot springs look more like a lake.
The Hotel des Chutes near the DRC border offers a bigger variety of food, and most of it is still affordable on a Peace Corps stipend—the veggie burger and fries for 2,000 francs is delicious, and their pea curry is great for when you’ve tired of ibirayi and brochettes. A number of places also offer pork (akabenzi); check out Kwa Monica near the bus station, or Hotel Umucyo in town.
Take in the beautiful sunset over Lake Kivu while watching the fishermen head out in their boats and pull in their catches. At night, you can often catch some live music at Motel Rubavu in town, a pool table and music at Kwasa’s, or check out the nightclub and some waragi at Ku Bagore while looking out over Lake Kivu and the DRC.
As fun as it can be, there’s more to the Gug than just Kamembe. In Rusizi District take a hike to the DRC/Rwanda border from Mushaka/Gishoma (take a bus from Kamembe in the direction of Bugarama). In just two to three hours of hiking, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most gorgeous views in all of Rwanda. Dramatic cliffs plummet down to the Rusizi River, which forms the border between the two countries. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water!
Continuing your trip through Rusizi District, make sure you visit the hot springs of Cimerwa, near Bugarama. Take a Sotra bus straight from Kamembe; the trip takes about 1.5 hours. It will drop you off in Cimerwa town, and then it’s about another 20 minutes walking to arrive at the hot springs (amashyuza), with lovely views of the cement factory on the way. The water ranges from comfortably hot to scalding, and from a foot or so deep to about five feet.; unlike the Gisenyi hot springs, the Cimerwa hot springs look more like a lake.
Relax by wading or paddling around in the warm water while being stared at by Rwandans bathing themselves in various states of dress. Extra points if you photobomb a Rwandan wedding shoot. Not that we’ve done that. Or you can do as the Rwandans do and bring some soap to switch up your normal bucket-bath routine. When you’ve had enough hot water and staring for one day, head back to Cimerwa for some Primus, brochettes, and potatoes at the bar across from the bus stop. The last bus back to Kamembe leaves at 4 pm, or you can take a moto to Bugarama and catch a taxi back to Kamembe, although the latter option is more expensive.
Nyamasheke district forms the other half of the Cyangugu, and offers some stunning views of Lake Kivu. Perhaps one of the most obvious things to do in Nyamasheke is to hike part, or all of the, Congo-Nile trail. Maps are available at RDB, and the trail is pretty obvious, with little green signs pointing the way.
One hidden gem along the Congo-Nile Trail is the Kumbya Retreat. It’s located near the town of Nyamasheke, on a little peninsula on Lake Kivu; take a bus to Nyamasheke town and then a moto. It’s secluded and peaceful, and there are rooms available for 10,000 (two people), or you can camp. There are swaying palm trees, fire pits, a swimming area complete with diving board and a floating island (swim at your own risk!). Bring your own food and cooking equipment, some music, and enjoy a relaxing couple of days.
Nyamasheke district forms the other half of the Cyangugu, and offers some stunning views of Lake Kivu. Perhaps one of the most obvious things to do in Nyamasheke is to hike part, or all of the, Congo-Nile trail. Maps are available at RDB, and the trail is pretty obvious, with little green signs pointing the way.
One hidden gem along the Congo-Nile Trail is the Kumbya Retreat. It’s located near the town of Nyamasheke, on a little peninsula on Lake Kivu; take a bus to Nyamasheke town and then a moto. It’s secluded and peaceful, and there are rooms available for 10,000 (two people), or you can camp. There are swaying palm trees, fire pits, a swimming area complete with diving board and a floating island (swim at your own risk!). Bring your own food and cooking equipment, some music, and enjoy a relaxing couple of days.
Yet another Cyangugu hotspot is Nyungwe forest, as well as the “annex”, Cyamudongo, where you can go Chimp trekking. (Yeah, we have chimpanzees. Jealous?). Most of the hikes start at the Uwinka visitors’ center, although some start from Kitabi on the eastern end, and others start from Gisakura on the western end of the forest. If you’re looking to save a bit of money while still getting the Nyungwe experience, get off at Uwinka, and then walk downhill on the road until you reach a sign saying “Kageno.” The road is free to hike on, and goes through the forest to a little village called Banda/Kageno (which is currently a Peace Corps site!). You can see monkeys and the beautiful forest along the way for free, without paying the steep prices of the official Nyungwe hikes (which start at about $60; most hikes leave at 9am or 1pm). It’s about 2 hours to walk to Banda and 3 hours back to the road; you can also camp there overnight.
See you in the Gug!
See you in the Gug!
TRAVEL INFORMATION for Cyangugu
Omega Kigali 0788808795 Departs: 6:00, 7:00, 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00 Rusizi 0788412155 Departs: 6:30, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00 Kigali Coach Kigali 0789344633 Rusizi 0789588911 Departs: 4:00, 6:00, 7:15, 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:30 |
Impala
Kigali 0788408545 Rusizi 0788408454 Departs: 3:00, 6:30, 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00 Sotra Kigali 0786560006/0722960006 Rusizi 0786560007/0722060007 Departs: 3:00, 4:00, 5:00, 6:00, 7:00, 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00 Sotra: Kamembe-Cimerwa Departs: 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00 |